LAMU
REVEALED IN MULTI-FACETS
‘Lamu, An
Artist’s Impression’ (posted February 28, 2017)
By Sophie
Walbeoffe,
Text by
Errol Trzebinski & Julia Seth-Smith
Published by Herbert Menzer
2017
Herbert Menzer
may have arrived in Lamu by sheer happenstance, a serendipitous fluke that
could easily be interpreted as his destiny. But ever since he ‘discovered’ what
he says the guidebooks call ‘the jewel of Kenya’s coastline’, he’s come to
spend increasing chunks of his life moving between his hometown of Hamburg, his
other favored European city of Amsterdam and Shela, the fishing village on Lamu
Island where he’s made for himself and a multitude of new and old friends, a
home away from home.
Herbert has
not only refurbished and restored old run-down Swahili homes, transforming a
few into elegant little boutique hotels and five-star ‘flats’ that feature not
just the classic Lamu doors, window frames and vedaka-embellished walls; they
also include all the modern amenities that any sophisticated traveler would
want to enjoy such as 24/7 electrical services, modern plumbing complete with
hot showers and steam baths.
Herbert also
commissioned the Kenya-based British artist Sophie Walbeoffe to paint a whole
book’s worth of radiant watercolor paintings featuring his beloved Lamu Island.
He gave her free reign to paint to her heart’s content, taking whatever topics
she cared to touch upon.
Herbert wasn’t
being glib or beguiled by this charming English lass. Indeed, he’d been an art
lover all his life and had even introduced the Lamu Painters Festivals to the
island in 2011 so that professional artists from Europe could discover the
beauty and blissful serenity of Lamu for themselves.
No, Herbert
had been looking for quite some time for the perfect painter to take up the
challenge and help him realize his dream, of creating a beautiful book that
embodied the spirit, magic and ineffable charm of the island including its
heavenly fauna, flora and most especially its gracious and gentle people.
This is
exactly what Sophie has done with her book, “Lamu: An Artist’s Impression”.
However, the
book is so much more than an exquisite picture book of paintings that reveal
everything from delicious dawns and colorful dusks, stunningly blue skies contrasted
with bleached sandy beaches exposed periodically at every low tide.
Sophie
clearly planted herself among the people, in their markets, outside their mosques,
at their seafronts and in their narrow streets; she even climbed onto a dhow
more than once so she could paint the shoreline from the perspective of the
sea, all in an effort to capture the essence of the island in all its
sun-kissed light and color.
But Sophie
shares her book with two other outstanding artists, both writers with one providing
a deeply researched (all-too-brief) history of Lamu going back to at least 800
BC and the other sharing delicious stories about some of the colorful
characters who have lived, loved and helped to shape Lamu’s modern and
contemporary history.
Julie Seth-Smith
is the researcher-writer historian who provides the cultural, social and
historical context for understanding how and why Lamu has come to be, look and
feel like it does today. Hers is essential as the painter picks up on the
visual as well as the intuitive which in Sophie’s case is infused with a long-standing
love for the region, even after having traveled and painted all around the
world. One can see her affection for all aspects of Lamu in both her
watercolors and the delightful sketches apparently meant to mirror Julia’s texts
and the topics she explores on the same page.
The other
writer, Errol Trzebinski, includes marvelous anecdotal stories about mainly
colorful colonial and post-colonial European characters, some of whom, like
Yony Waite, are still alive and well. Meanwhile, a number of others, such as
Bunny Allen, ‘Dougie’ Collins and Percy Petley who founded Petley Inn, are
eccentrics who died some years ago. Yet Errol writes about all of them
lyrically as if they are alive, well and being either wickedly outrageous, like
Bunny, or winningly progressive, like Yony who managed to bring a second-hand ‘etching
press’ all the way to Lamu by assorted means, including a dhow, so that not
only she but other people, could create lovely prints using her press which is
situated in Yony’s Wildebeest Workshop.
One of those
who’s made use of Yony’s press in the recent past is Sophie, who isn’t only a
watercolorist, but also a multi-talented oil painter, poet and print maker.
Errol writes
about a whole range of whimsical topics in the book, including everything from
cats and donkeys to historic shipwrecks and cowrie shells.
The one
thing the reader needs to know is the Errol’s texts are in italics, on
off-white paper and signed E.T. The rest are by Julia apart from two pages of ‘an
artist’s impression’ by Sophie and the open words by the ‘Patron of [the] Lamu
Painters’ Festival’, Herbert Menzer.
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