By
Margaretta wa Gacheru (posted 22 October 2019)
Deepa Dosaja
has defied the odds against a Kenyan fashion designer making headway not just
in the local fashion world, but on the global fashion scene as well.
Having just
gotten back to Nairobi from a whirlwind fashion tour that took her first to
Paris, then to Addis Ababa, Deepa again showed her new Spring/ Summer 2020
Collection last Thursday night at Fairmont Norfolk Hotel.
“Deepa was just
at the Paris Fashion Week and then at the Hub of Africa Fashion Week in Addis
Ababa,” says Lisa Christophersen who collaborated with the Norfolk management
to create an improvised catwalk for five Kenyan beauties to model several
outfits from Deepa’s new ‘Diversity’ collection.
“I showed
600 original designs in Paris, but I’m only showing fifteen tonight,” says the
diminutive Deepa who’s wearing her own chic but simple black stretch-silk
cocktail dress.
With Lisa’s
assistance, she’s also curated several displays of her one-of-a-kind
hand-embroidered and hand-painted dresses, coats, capes and pants. They are
hanging on racks so we can easily see why Deepa’s fans don’t mind spending several
hundred dollars on one of her original designs.
“They are
dresses you can wear either to the beach or to the boardroom,” says the former
fashion model and media personality, Pinky Ghelani as she moderates the Fashion
Show. She’s wearing one of Deepa’s originals, this one a cream-colored silk
cocktail dress which is branded ‘Conscious Fashion’. As it turns out, that is
Deepa’s mantra, meant to signal her concern to not just create elegant fashions
but also to make garments that do no damage to the environment.
“It also
means that Deepa’s fashions are only made with organic materials, like cotton,
wool, silk, linen and even bamboo,” says her sister Anuja who is also wearing an
original Deepa design. “She only uses non-toxic dyes and never touches
synthetics which invariably release micro-fibers and micro-plastics into the
air we breathe,” adds Anuja who is clearly proud of her younger sister.
Having started
designing her own clothes when she was only 13, Anuja recalls that after their
father got Deepa a sewing machine, she began sewing non-stop. She’s been
stitching and designing clothes ever since.
“I started
by creating dresses for my sisters,” says Deepa who took sewing classes all through
school, up until she went away to get a degree in fashion design from the
LaSalle College of Fashion and Design in Montreal, Canada.
“I was
actually born in Kenya, but when I was six, our family moved to Canada,” she
recalls. But then after her first degree, she was on her way for further
studies, but stopped off in Kenya to see relatives. She’s been here ever since.
“First I got
a job offer that I just couldn’t turn down. It was as a merchandise manager for
Tinga Tinga clothing company. After that I met my husband,” she adds.
After Tinga Tinga
closed down, Deepa went to work for another design company. But then, six years
ago she took the leap of faith and opened her own boutique. “That is when I finally
began branding my collections with my own name,” she says.
Right next
to the boutique, Deepa has set up her own manufacturing unit where she’s got
tailors and young women who she’s trained to both embroider and paint so they
can reproduce her signature flowers on her clothing lines.
“The women come
from around the neighborhood, from Kangemi and Kibera. Most of them didn’t have
skilled jobs before Deepa’s training,” says Stella Muthoni, Deepa’s production
manager.
Because there
are subtle differences in each of the women’s style of embroidery and painting,
Stella adds that each garment is essentially one of a kind.
Meanwhile,
Deepa often has fashion design students come to her boutique where she speaks
to them about careers and gives them advise. “I often go out to fashion schools
and speak,” she says.
One thing
about her participation in the Paris Fashion Week was that she had been advised
to create garments that were all size zero. But Deepa says that when she speaks
to students, she tells them they must be prepared to create clothing that can
fit any size from size six to twenty-six!
The other one
who’s wearing a Deepa original is Lisa. “She designed it especially for me
since I was participating in the Blue Economy Conference. The applique on the
dress is made of fish scales!” says Lisa whose dress comes with a cute jacket
with sleeves handmade in lace from India.
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