VENICE BIENNALE THE MUST-SEE GLOBAL ART EXHIBITION
Walking through Venice, one sees art everywhere
By
Margaretta wa Gacheru (posted November 20, 2017)
Venice
Biennale! It had been my dream to see it this year now that Kenyan artists had
finally gotten there. Not that the artists had much help reaching the Biennale
from the Kenya government, despite promises made. In fact, the crew of curator
Jimmy Ogonga and his selected artists had to find their own means to reach Venice
and even to find an exhibition venue at Scuola Palladio on Giudecca island.
Having
family in Vicenza, the beautiful city founded by the Italian architect Andrea Palladio
in the mid-1500s, I was fortunate to fly into Venice (via Doha) with assurance I’d
have a place to stay. We only had the weekend as the family either worked or
went to school on weekdays.
Vicenza is
just a half-hour train ride away from Venice, so I got a lift early Friday
morning to the train. Then I planned to take the water-taxi to the two major
centres where Biennale artists and Pavillions were showcasing artistic works.
Ansenale and
Giardini both had stops on the Grand Canal. But to my dismay, the public
transit workers chose that Friday to go on strike! I managed to find one rogue
water-taxi but it only stopped at the Rialto station. After that I had to walk.
There couldn’t
be a more exquisite city than Venice to walk through. Not only are there lovely
shops filling every walk-way featuring everything from jewelry, glass, high
fashion, and gelato ice cream to cathedrals, cappuccinos and countless town
squares.
What’s
amazing about walking through Venice is that it’s absolutely
pedestrian-friendly. Leave alone the fact of no cars anywhere. There isn’t one
bicycle, motorcycle and even roller skate anywhere on the walks. Only bridges.
Countless bridges were to be traversed in order to reach the official Biennale
sites, the recommended starting point being Giardini.
Fortunately,
there were several outdoor sculpture exhibitions in the lush green parks along
the Canal which were worth stopping to see. But my time was running out and I wanted
to stop by both Giardini and Arsenale.
Family had
helped me book my all-day entry passes. So when I finally reached Giardini, I didn’t
stand in line. Still the challenge was, where to begin? On the right were the
national pavilions, but I chose to go left towards the major contemporary art
assembly hall entitled La Biennale. Curated by Christine Macel, her Biennale
mission statement was open-ended as she wanted the artists to do as they wished
without her dictates. Was that a mistake? Of course, it was democratic. But
sadly, I wasn’t impressed.
I confess I
must be biased, but I prefer contemporary Kenyan art to the Western concept of ‘contemporary
art’ or what I saw of ‘Vive Arte Viva’.
For
instance, one artist burned a bunch of books, then glued them unto a canvas and
called it art. Another created an installation called ‘Artist Asleep’ in which
you literally saw someone sleeping under a ragged blanket in a brass bed. My
favorite was the artist who (like Kenya’s own Rosemary Karuga who had no funds
to buy art materials but created anyway) only had nylon stockings which she
filled with sand and then shaped into fascinating sculptures.
It was only
when I left that giant hall and found the Russian, Danish, Finnish, Venezuelan,
Spanish and American pavilions that my enthusiasm for the Biennale was
restored. Granted these spaces must have been pricey, but they were filled with
fascinating works. I could’ve spent hours in each of them, but there was no
time. Venice gets dark from 5pm.
But as I left
Giardini, I encountered Mark Bradford’s outdoor color spectrum that was a
dazzling way to depart the Biennale. I had to walk miles to get the train so I’d
have to see both the Kenyans’ and the Arsenele showcases in two years’ time.
Fortunately,
I found another rogue water-taxi that took me back towards the train station.
But being ‘rogue’ it didn’t drop me where I wanted, so I had to find a
so-called ‘people-mover’ metro train to take me to the Vicenza train station.
Remember the
strike! Well, by the time I got to the station, there were no trains to
Vicenza. Fortunately, I found one English-speaking Italian student who got me
on the train to Verona.
“The Vicenza
stop comes just before Verona, so come with me,” he said as we both ran with
the crowd, scrambling to find a seat on the last train to Vicenza.
PS. Venice
Biennale 2017 closes this Sunday, November 26.
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